A Road Oft travelled and Zara's last road trip

Zara n Me - Rajahmundry

I'm here at the infamous crossroads. That moment in life, a lifetime till it passes. Not the first to reach this milestone, not the last and not the only one. Lets just say, I travel as much in company, as alone. As light as the shirt on my back. And heavy with the burden of complex emotions, that we humans claim, puts us right up there, on top of the food chain.

The past year has been pretty tough. Illness in the family, uncertainty, separation and bereavement. More uncertainty.  Just adding up flying miles of endless journeys. And the circular motion of it brings you right back to where it all starts.

I've been yearning to break free. Break out. Feel the caress of the wind blowing through my hair. (Stop! This is my,  a bald mans, fantasy - wind blowing through whatever little growth there is, what once were flowing tresses). Maybe it's the right time for a journey Che?  I'm no Ernesto Rafael, and a bike ride would indeed be revolutionary for a guy now used to the creature comforts of an Air Con and the stability of four wheels. In my defence, the weather in my part of the world is hot hotter hottest and grislyly (is that a word?) humid.

As a young man, I  did traverse the length and breadth of this land on bikes, but then AirCon was a luxury and Global Warming never occurred to us. Whatever!! As a family man, Car it is. What about a buddy buddy road trip?  But the problem was that, I was not in a buddy buddy mood with humans. And my Dog Zara, or cat Dosa, for that matter, can't drive.  Though Zara loves the ride and Dosa hates it with equal measure. Romantic? At 46 it doesn't sound romantic. Sounds more like an approaching men-o-pause mid life crisis

SPOILER ALERT : THIS BLOG IS NOT A PHILOSOPHICAL "ZEN AND THE ART OF MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCE" KIND OF TREATISE. 

For the pedantic, the only thing I know about Zen, is how to spell it, and motorcycle maintenance, however romantic it sounds, is definitely not on the cards.

Life presents opportunities. Sometimes unwanted. Mine came with the end of the school year and board exams of my daughter, and the need to take our Zara to her new family. So yes there was a rider. Quite literally four. My Wife and Zara, and later our daughter. Come to think of it, all our longer car rides have been with the three of us, with some part of our ever proliferating menagerie. But this time was different. It was time for our daughter to bid farewell to boarding school and time for Zara to go to her new home. Poignant. Separation. The last trip as a family, for some time to come. 

Vizag (Visakhapatnam for the uninitiated) to Bengaluru (Bangalore). A distance of more than 1000 Km each way. Down the scenic  East coast of India and then cutting across the deccan via Tirupati to everyone's favourite/cool cool city, Bengaluru. The bulk of our journey was on National Highway 16. (About 700+ Km). Depending on the detours enroute it is about 180-200 Km cutting across from the East Coast and then onto National Highway 75 (about 100-130 Km) for Bangalore.  For those interested in the Distances, Tips, Hotel reviews, Tolls, Journey metrics, Speed etc, please scroll to the end of this blog, after the jump break. Heads up. This is not an off-roader trail. Good to excellent roads. Enough pit stops along the way. Cell phone coverage almost throughout. So trust the lady that speaks out from the Google Maps App. Though, be warned, she does like to take shortcuts and at times leads you through some interesting country roads. And she has an abominable accent. (Though me wonders if it's a setting issue or plain woman power thingie, the lady on my wife's phone has a pretty much Indian accent).

Zara has very little of personal stuff. Mainly a few toys she's pretty possessive about. But we packed for  her like the parents of a bride. The seats were pushed back and lowered. Her mattress was laid out. Then her pet carrier was packed with every thing hers, from brushes to shampoos, to medicines to towels to food/water bowls, et all. Her  trousseau was carefully placed in the car. Then we squeezed in our bags. And an icebox/cooler and other knick knacks.

Surprisingly the Brezza has lots of space out at the back. Later we stuffed in a huge suitcase+small suitcase+bags+++ (ex-teenager-leaving-hostel) and also the teenager with more its n bits that followed in her wake. Of course Zara graciously gave up her bed and moved up front, ridding shotgun on the co-passengers lap, or curled up in his/her footwell. Yes space. My Brezza, was raring to take me on the journeys we had promised each other a year back. In this journey, as a family we have a come a long way. Serious upgrades. From a Bike, to a tank like Premier Padmini, to a WagonR to a "compact" SUV, city slicker ride. Wanderlust. The roads beckon again.

Preparations, primarily, had meant booking Pet friendly accommodation and downloading offline Google Maps for the entire stretch. The onward  journey was split into 4 days (easily doable in 3, or even 2 days if your Zen is trucking)
Day 1 : Vizag - Vijayawada
Day 2 : Vijayawada - Tirupati
Day 3 : Tirupati - The Peepal Grove School
Day 4 : PGS - Bangalore

The return journey was left to unfold at its own pace.

Day 1 : Vizag - Vijayawada (366 Km - 8h)

We were in no hurry. And we took our leisurely time. A break every hour to walk or feed Zara. Little breaks to extend our time with her. Breaks to change around driving duties. It's a miracle that we still managed an average speed of 45+ km per hour in this section.

The road from Vizag to Vijayawada is a four laner. You're pretty much safe on your side of the divider except for the occasional Speedy Gonzales's driving on the wrong side of the road. The traffic is pretty heavy leaving Vizag and in the town's / townships(which were once villages), enroute.

And here's the rub. On a 4 lane highway an ecosystem develops  around it, and at times almost on it. Towns, villages, tea shops and a varied assortment of businesses keep popping up, merrily encroaching at will. A slice of semi-urbanised India, lively and buoyant. Whereas the newer 6 laners are like a barren vastness, punctuated with the occasional Fuel Pumps, lay-byes, or Toll plazas. Otherwise pure nothingness. Air-strips running endlessly from one  toll booth to another. These are wide open spaces which have seemingly barricaded life away . Antiseptic, but a motorists delight? Really? Yes, if zip zap zoom is your fix. If the focus is to cover distances, point to point. I guess everyone has their own high.

Backwaters off Rajahmundry

The highway skirts Rajahmundry town. And just before the Godavari river Google decided to take us on a detour. We took a beautiful route across various bridges and along canals and tributaries that make up the Godavari delta. We loved it, Zara loved it and the country roads were a welcome relief, full of life and bereft of the truckers. On the journey back, we stuck to the highway-NH 16. Google was right, NH 16 was longer, looping in an arc closer to the coast. Lush green, but nothing like the country roads and with lots of traffic and trucks/trailers.

The section between Rajahmundry(on the banks of the Godavari River) and Vijayawada(Krishna River) straddles one of most fertile areas of Andhra Pradesh. The ride is scenic and comfortable, but the traffic density is higher, increasing as we reach the outskirts of Vijayawada, particularly after the airport. The entire section is dotted with Toll booths and every time you shell out you wonder why you're paying, because invariably the worst sections are near the Toll plazas. I almost reached out and asked the booth attendant to pay me for using the road.

We reached our Airbnb lodgings by late afternoon and settled down into a spacious and comfortable room (my wifes misgivings based on the colour scheme - purple - proved wrong) on the second floor of a house, with a big sitout and flowers all around.  Very friendly and hospitable hosts. The three of us crashed out after a "Swiggy" delivered dinner.

Day 2 : Vijayawada - Tirupati (414 Km - 6h 15m)

Breakfast at Vijayawada Homestay

The lady at the Airbnb gave us an awesome home cooked breakfast. And she loved dogs. A one way ticket to our hearts.

The second day is always easier. Nah we were not getting battle hardened. The road got better. Hugely better. Amaravati, which abuts Vijayawada, is slated to be the new capital of the Andhra Pradesh. And it shows on the highway. Massive 6 laners where you can actually floor the pedal, put your car in cruise control and fly. There are lot of hotels/Pit stops/Fuel Pumps between Vizag and Vijayawada. But after Vijayawada it keeps getting more desolate. Yes abundant Fuel pumps etc , but lifeless. Of course the suicidal Gonzales's, driving on the wrong side may appear, but they are rare, and you have enough place to manoeuvre to freedom. Yes the scenery is not as pleasing, but hang on you're about to takeoff. Well mostly. Zara too, was resigned to her fate and slept through.

The most exciting part was the police/Election commision(?) check posts that started popping up  Ostensibly they were looking for people ferrying cash?? I had visions of joining a line of cars and someone ditching a huge bag of cash onto my path. Alas, dreams don't come true with ease. The Pajero will have to wait.

Probably because of the Krishnapatnam port and surrounding industries, traffic increases manyfold near Nellore. About 80 Km beyond Nellore, we have to turn off the NH 16 towards Tirupati. The airstrip changes into a shady and scenic, but, poor mans highway. Bumpy in parts but generally a good drive. The Brezza's comfy shocks helped. Meandering roads back in touching distance of life. Big mobile woolly mammoths (tractor/wagons overloaded with hay from the paddy harvest) jostling for space. We made good time and reached our destination in Tirupati "Nayath Serviced Apartments". Large spacious 1 BHK apartment meant for  a larger family, but for us a Pet friendly haven. Mixed emotions, we would get to meet our daughter tomorrow, but another daughter would be leaving us the next day.

Day 3 : Tirupati - The Peepal Grove School (79 Km - 3h)

Bao Chan

Our daughters school nestles  in a verdant valley, in Chittoor district. The name stems from the concept of buddha gaining enlightenment under a peepal tree. And yes there are a few Peepal trees. We had time to kill and a short distance to cover. It was the last of the board exams and we did not want be a distraction to the young lady. So the aim was to reach late. Tirupati is home to a lot of ancient temples and forts. But we had already covered most of it. Google came to our rescue and ensured that we took as many country roads and back lanes as possible.

Vakula Mata Temple

A short distance outside Tirupati on the Kalpakkam road, in the Peruru village, is the Vakula Maata temple. This temple is part of the Lord Venkateswara lore that is both fascinating and intriguing. The Lady was Lord  Srinivasa's mother. The temple is believed to have been very opulent and studded with ornate jewels. Built in a manner that her visage faces the seven hills, where her son Lord Venkateswara resides. It now stands forlorn and abandoned. Since it is in the foothills the temple has faced pillage and defacement by the various indavers.

Rani mahal
Chandragiri

Rajarajeshwari Temple

Then Google aunty did it again. She tried to link us from NH 140 to NH 71 through a back road that hadn't even been built (was under construction). Go figure. Anyway we looped back on NH 140 and came across Chandragiri Fort. The ramparts of the fort barely exist. Remnants of its walls can be seen stretching across the hills. If planning a visit check AP tourism for the timings of the Museum  (it was closed when we visited) and the Light and Sound show.
  What remains, of this capital of the Vijayanagar Empire, is the Rani mahal which is now a museum and the Rajarajeshwari temple.

Walls of the Chandragiri Fort
snaking their way up the hill

Chandragiri

The highway constructions/expansions are going on in full swing along all the roads between here and beyond, towards Chennai and Bangalore. So Google took us along another country ride, 40 km journey through chittoor district. And we reached in time to greet our board-vanquishing princess. The evening was spent in the throes of teenage expressions of nostalgia and freedom and packing up.

Day 4 : PGS - Bangalore (173 Km - 4h 30m)

 PGS is known for the generous helpings of Red Rice served in the mess. Exotic food for visiting parents. Students, I guess, to put it mildly, would beg to differ.  PGS gave my daughter much more than healthy food and a nurturing education. It has made her more confident and all grown up. But it was time for the last goodbye.

The journey from PGS to bangalore cuts through little towns and villages this time peppered with cops looking for suitcases filled with cash. Still no one dumped a bag in my lap! Sigh!

The Old Lady at her New Home

We reached bangalore without any further incident. Reached Zara's new home. The most difficult part is letting go. There are angels in this world. These angels stepped forward to give our Zara a home. A home where she will be loved and taken care of.  The pain of letting her go will never go. But this had to be done.This is the best home we could have found for her. A family with 4 dogs. Two boxers, one with an amputated leg. An indie and another indie pup who they have recently rescued. She is surrounded by people who love her. Out of respect for their privacy I'm not naming the angels. We will forever be indebted to them. Yes, the most difficult part is letting go.

For years we've traveled from coast to coast with more than a zoo in our bags. All kinds of animals rescued by my wife. Dogs, cats, turtles even  birds. Zara, too, came to us battered and bruised. It was a miracle she survived. But this time was different. She was getting older and the family was moving in different directions. We drew up farcical plans of relocating multiple times so that Zara could stay. Money apart the Vet vetoed the plan. Even if it worked out, such convoluted travel and prolonged quarantines was not something Zara could endure.

Letting go is the most difficult part.

Day 5/6 : Bangalore 

 We stayed at a friend's place. Yes we visited the standard watering holes. The routine breakfast at Koshy's, a teenager driven - K Pop fuelled - korean dinner at The Himalayan. A lunch at some mediterranean joint. Amazing foodie experiences.

  But there is a void. Every 5 min we would check on WhatsApp. How is Zara faring? Zara's new mother - the epitome of patience, feeds us with unlimited news updates, video clips and photos. We stay in Bangalore for two days. To let Zara settle down and then say a final goodbye. But we figure that would be too cruel to her, to back, and then leave her.

Day 7 : Bangalore - Nellore (380Km - 08h 20m)

The Bald & The Beautiful

A break, or should I say heartbreak, at Bangalore and we are off to Vizag. Strange.  For the first time this family road journey does not include the search for a pet friendly lodging. Zara is in a home where people love her. We set off in the general direction of home. No plans, except that we need to get there eventually. Home that too, will, soon be a part of the the shifting sands of our memories. Newer shores beckon.

At the Shell Petrol Pump, 50 Km from Kolar, on NH 75, sumptuous Breakfast at Maiyas (strongly recommend the the Idly, vada and Masala Dosa and Ghee roast Dosa and the Khara bhaat - Oh well everything is good) . The stop incidentally also houses a  Starbucks and an McD. Across the road is the Cafe Coffee Day  that we have stopped at, every time, on our visits to the school. Swirling sands of time. We discover the place also houses Rabbits, Love birds, geese, myriad shops and a smoking room. The mind wanders.

We follow Google maps and it too meanders. Short cuts or the real deal? Scenic villages flash by. A Slice of rural life. Small towns. Country roads. Denver plays on the stereo. Another village goes past. Makes me pause and think that people spend their entire life in one village. Maybe venturing out till the next village. It is me who is moving. That village boy was there yesterday and that man will be there tomorrow too. It that a blessed existence?

Meanwhile the road is crisscrossing and snaking across the swanky new 6 laner morphing out of the rubble that once were untouched mountains, pristine forests, mango groves and lush fields. Another offering to the goddess of progress. A sign of a country, an economy hungry, roaring to unshackle the past. Roads like airport runways. As detached as the concrete and asphalt used to build them. And bowing down to the newness I slip my car into cruise control.

A temple in the Srikalahasti complex

We stop at Srikalahasti. Lost lores of the past. I have written about this temple in my a previous Blog, so I'll not dwell too much on it. One wonders at the architectural prowess of the ancients. The stories that too have been lost in time to transform into rituals embalmed in faith, not to be questioned.

We decided to move onto the highway to home, as if trying to leave bangalore as far behind as possible. We reached Nellore and lucked out in our choice of the Hotel. On the bright side, for the superstitious, that was scratch one. Salt over the shoulder. The hotel sucked, big time. But we were tired. On the road, it really hits you only when you finally stop. Then you just crash. Dinner was instant noodles and Home made Sandwiches, ex-Bangalore.

A video of Zara in her new house. Playing, socialising with the other four legged members of her family. Happy. Sad. Move on. She does this boss-woman thing. The puppy succumbs. Later we hear she has taken charge of the boxer boys. The indie too will succumb. Zara is old, getting older, 10 years, and still a charmer. A little loveable bully.

Day 8 : Nellore - Vijayawada (274 Km - 4h 15m)

Nellore fuelled a desire to move on . Yet tired bones had a late start. The girls refused breakfast at the Hotel. So we hit the road. A pit stop for fuel and a late breakfast.  Breakfast at a Hotel called Sitara. We were hungry and the Dosa tasted good. Normally I like change but one night at the Oyo and I was game for anything semi-decent even if it was an overdose of Dosa.

That benevolence didn't last too long and by the time we reached Vijayawada we were craving for change. So we googled, Zomato(ed) and brainstormed (means I got shouted down) and went for lunch at an arabic joint. "Barkaas Arabic Restaurant". Juicy Mutton Mandi. Which basically means mutton biryani served in a single large plate and every one gets to put their hands in the trough (and me a spoon).  More brainstorming (I was silent by now) and dessert at "Roll Over". (fancy sounding stuff - basically ice cream and chocolate sauce)

Have you ever wondered what to do when you're in a middle of a town and need a clean Public toilet? Simple, visit  a Mall. They are easier to find, air conditioned and google gives directions. Cheap at 40 bucks for parking.

Anandasena

Undavalli

The tossup was whether to press on to Rajahmundry or visit places of interest in Vijayawada.  I am proud to say, I took the call (I was driving at the others too tired to object- hungover from Nellore). So we went to the Undavalli Caves, about 10km from the town. Undavalli Caves  are a monolithic structure carved out of a single sandstone hill. And date back to 4-5 cent A.D. Fascinating carvings by the Vishwakarma Sthapathis, in three stories, exhibiting Hindu, Buddhist and Jain architecture. The centerpiece is a a huge Statue of Lord Vishnu as Ananadasena lying on the snake Sheshnag.   Graffiti exhibiting undying love of unlimited jerks and monkeys also infest the place, and while monkeys forage humans litter at will.

We decided to camp in Vijayawada and meandered looking for a suitable nesting place.
A tired, Oyo scarred, family gleefully accepted the comforts and food of Hotel City Central.

Day 9 : Vijayawada - Vizag (362 Km - 7h 30m)

Even the Gods Travel

The trip to Vizag was uneventful. Busy roads traffic, scenic drive, sums it up. Of course the Police check posts. Andhra was in full election mood. We saw no such checks in Karnataka. To top it all, at Jagdampeta we ran into a  Political rally of sorts. It consisted of numerous  people milling around like headless chicken. Autos overflowing with Tees and flags of a particular bright fluorescent hue. Flags loud crackers, rockets and Flower petals (of the same hue) littered. Moving in both directions, on both sides of the road - bikes autos, humans and cattle. Live-stock Huh?

Dosa

Reach home. Dosa's babysitter opens the door. An eerie silence. For the first time we are not  greeted by the joyful barking of gods own creature. Dosa sulks and skulks and then meows, as if to say where is Zara? Little does she know that she will be gone soon. That this home will also swirl away. Beautiful memories that will haunt us for ever. This move will be different. Very different. Meanwhile Dosa cuddles in my lap, climbs over my shoulder. Purring. Welcome home papa. Is this love or is this love.

For the Number Crunchers

Vizag-Bangalore
NH 16                     715
Cutting across         213
NH 75                 104
Total Journey       1032

Bangalore-Vizag
NH 75                 136
Cutting across         181
NH 16                706.6
Total Journey      1023.6


🏡  Pet Friendly Accommodation : 🐕🐈 Those travelling with Pets please check if the Hotel/Homestay is Pet friendly. We used
👉 Airbnb. Select "Filters". Scroll to "House Rules" select "Pets Allowed"
👉 Google Search "Pet Friendly Hotels at XXXX". Scroll down to Googles own listings of "Hotels". Click and Googles travel page pops up. Select "Filters". In "Amenities" select "Pet Friendly"
✋ Please call/text the Hotel and confirm the "Pet Friendly" Tag is correct. We found a few places did not accept pets, despite being tagged.

🍴  Abundant places to eat enroute. South Indian fare is readily available. Drive into the cities for alternative cuisines.

📱  Good Cell phone coverage along all sections(Both BSNL and Airtel). Airtel 4G coverage was available in most parts. I suggest you download offline maps before hand uninterrupted navigation.

🚘 Trust Google Maps. But do a route review beforehand on your desktop, remember the visible real estate is limited on your cell phone

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